15/07: UNUSUAL FLOWERS
Master Gardener Kathy Engle notes what folks notice in her gardens. When walking through gardens, isn't it always the unusual flower that pulls you in for a closer look. The flowers I share with you below are by no means rare, but the ones that often get the most attention.
According to Smith’s Exotic Botany of 1805, “The more refined admirers of Nature” rate Astrantia among their favorite blossoms. I don't know how refined I am, but I sure admire Astrantia. The flowers bloom like tiny enchanting fireworks. If a natural look is what you’re after, plant a long-blooming Astrantia. Slugs do not like Astrantias, so interplant them among your other shade plants to repel them.
The wildflower Knautia macedonica is one of the few flowers that does not have a widely used common name among gardeners. The blooms begin in spring and with deadheading will continue until first frost. Knautia wants lots of sun but will tolerate a little shade and requires well-draining soil. The blooms tend to be floppy, so plant along side sturdier flowers. Once established as a sturdy clump, it will be fairly drought tolerant with just occasional deep waterings. While Knautia's individual clumps are not long lived, it may self-seed to naturalize in the garden.
According to Smith’s Exotic Botany of 1805, “The more refined admirers of Nature” rate Astrantia among their favorite blossoms. I don't know how refined I am, but I sure admire Astrantia. The flowers bloom like tiny enchanting fireworks. If a natural look is what you’re after, plant a long-blooming Astrantia. Slugs do not like Astrantias, so interplant them among your other shade plants to repel them.
The wildflower Knautia macedonica is one of the few flowers that does not have a widely used common name among gardeners. The blooms begin in spring and with deadheading will continue until first frost. Knautia wants lots of sun but will tolerate a little shade and requires well-draining soil. The blooms tend to be floppy, so plant along side sturdier flowers. Once established as a sturdy clump, it will be fairly drought tolerant with just occasional deep waterings. While Knautia's individual clumps are not long lived, it may self-seed to naturalize in the garden.
Master Gardener Sylvia Kremp shares her experiences with Rain Gardens. Now that summer is here, it seems we either experience drought or downpours, neither of which is desirable. However, most yards, gardens, farms, and/or businesses have troublesome low spots where water pools, potentially causing flooding or attracting mosquitoes, but which have the potential to become planted oases. These natural or constructed depressions, when populated with native species of trees, perennials, and even bog plants, not only absorb water that would otherwise run off hard surfaces such as roofs and driveways, but also filter and purify it, keeping it in our local groundwater to replenish our aquifers instead of sending it down storm drains to the Chesapeake Bay still full of pollutants.
Unlike cisterns, rain barrels, or retention ponds, which are all valuable ways to conserve water, rain gardens do not store water but instead use it productively rather than wasting it. In addition, these shallow basins allow water to be absorbed gradually, over a period of a few days, reducing mosquito populations since they do not have enough time to complete their life cycles. Another benefit is that a rain garden supports a wide variety of beneficial wildlife, providing valuable food and habitat in otherwise urban and suburban areas.
Many communities are actively encouraging homeowners, and public institutions like schools and businesses, to create these beautiful solutions to otherwise vexing, recurring standing water/erosion problems. An excellent example of a rain garden constructed to solve flooding problems in a large, paved parking lot can be viewed at the Chambersburg Area School District on Stanley Avenue. Funded by the PA Department of Environmental Protection as an Environmental Education Grant program, it was installed by the Chambersburg Agricultural Education classes under the direction of project manager, Jonathan Seaman.
Another public garden can be visited at the Experimental Wildlife Garden area at the Penn State Cooperative Extension in Franklin County, located on Franklin Farm Lane, which utilizes a naturally occurring slope down to the barn where willow trees, ferns, and other native, water-loving plants thrive.
Unlike cisterns, rain barrels, or retention ponds, which are all valuable ways to conserve water, rain gardens do not store water but instead use it productively rather than wasting it. In addition, these shallow basins allow water to be absorbed gradually, over a period of a few days, reducing mosquito populations since they do not have enough time to complete their life cycles. Another benefit is that a rain garden supports a wide variety of beneficial wildlife, providing valuable food and habitat in otherwise urban and suburban areas.
Many communities are actively encouraging homeowners, and public institutions like schools and businesses, to create these beautiful solutions to otherwise vexing, recurring standing water/erosion problems. An excellent example of a rain garden constructed to solve flooding problems in a large, paved parking lot can be viewed at the Chambersburg Area School District on Stanley Avenue. Funded by the PA Department of Environmental Protection as an Environmental Education Grant program, it was installed by the Chambersburg Agricultural Education classes under the direction of project manager, Jonathan Seaman.
Another public garden can be visited at the Experimental Wildlife Garden area at the Penn State Cooperative Extension in Franklin County, located on Franklin Farm Lane, which utilizes a naturally occurring slope down to the barn where willow trees, ferns, and other native, water-loving plants thrive.
12/07: Bee and Wasp Nest Collection
Extension Educator Alex Surcica is conducting research on bees, wasps, and hornets and is seeking samples from homeowners in the area. Rather than reaching for insecticide to kill these fascinating insects, contact Alex at 263-9226 or email him at aps15@ psu.edu if you have a nest that he can capture.
12/07: COMING EVENTS & WORKSHOPS:
Thursday, July 21, 2011 6:30-9:00 p.m. Water Bath Canning - Learn to preserve food safely and correctly. This will be a hands-on workshop where you can practice your canning skills as a beginner or experienced preserver.
Thursday, July 28, 2011 6:00-9:00 p.m. Canning Under Pressure - This will be a hands-on workshop where you can practice your pressure canning skills and learn safely how to can low acid foods with a pressure canner to prevent spoilage.
Thursday, August 4, 2011 7:00-9:00 p.m. Freezing and Drying - Learn how to freeze fruits and vegetables quickly and safely for a high quality product. Learn how to dry fruits, vegetables, herbs and meats.
The above classes cost $15.00 each, or $40.00 for the series.
For additional information, please call the Extension Office at 717-263-9226
Thursday, July 28, 2011 6:00-9:00 p.m. Canning Under Pressure - This will be a hands-on workshop where you can practice your pressure canning skills and learn safely how to can low acid foods with a pressure canner to prevent spoilage.
Thursday, August 4, 2011 7:00-9:00 p.m. Freezing and Drying - Learn how to freeze fruits and vegetables quickly and safely for a high quality product. Learn how to dry fruits, vegetables, herbs and meats.
The above classes cost $15.00 each, or $40.00 for the series.
For additional information, please call the Extension Office at 717-263-9226
Did you know that many plants that have “lily” as part of their common name (daylilies) are not “true” lilies? True lilies belong to the genus Lilium. Cultivated for more than 5,000 years, Liliums are one of the most treasured species among all perennial flowers. Cultivated lilies are classified into eight divisions based upon the number of blooms per stem, shape and presentation, of the individual flowers, and a separate class exists for species lilies.
Asiatic and Oriental lilies are the two most popular types of lilies for northern gardens. As the names suggest, Asiatic lilies have their origins in several areas in Asia, while the Oriental lilies started from a few species native to Japan.
Asiatic lilies are among the easiest to grow. They're very hardy, need no staking, and are not particularly fussy about soil, as long as it drains well. If you like flowers which multiply prolifically, bloom early, and have bright powerful colors, then Asiatics may be for you. On the other hand, if you like heavenly scented flowers, Oriental lilies are the way to go. Oriental lilies tend to be more aromatic, but are a bit trickier to grow and will spread much more slowly.
Where, When and How to Plant Your Lilium
Lily bulbs may be planted in spring or in the fall, usually from mid-September through mid-October. If you find hardy lilies growing in containers, you may add them to your garden throughout the growing season. When buying locally, select firm, plump bulbs with roots attached. Plant them as soon as possible. Bulbs never go completely dormant so they must not dry out before planting.
Both Asiatic and Oriental lilies need five to six hours of sunlight every day. Oriental varieties, however, prefer afternoon shade too.
Never plant lilies where standing water collects after heavy rainfall. Well-drained soil is an absolute must. Add lots of organic matter to clay soil to create a raised area with improved drainage. Incorporate organic matter into light, sandy soil also, to help hold onto nutrients and prevent it from drying too rapidly.
Before winter, mulch over newly planted bulbs with four to six inches of loose, weed-free compost, leaves, or wood chips. This delays soil freezing and allows roots to continue growing longer. Mulch also insulates the soil against fluctuating temperatures, delaying the emergence of frost-tender shoots in spring.
Tiger Lilies (Lilium lancifolium) should be kept apart from other lilies since they can be carriers of viruses.
Caring for Your Lilies
In spring, leave mulch in place until the danger of hard frost has passed. If lily shoots grow through the mulch, start to remove the mulch gradually – but leave it nearby so you can cover them again if another hard frost is predicted.
Fertilize the soil each spring with a phosphorus-rich formula such as 5–10–10. Slow-release fertilizers work well. Always follow label instructions when applying fertilizer.
Lilies usually have few pests, but rabbits and slugs can be a menace to emerging shoots. Aphids – small sucking insects – can also cause problems for flower buds. Carefully wash the affected plants with water sprayed forcefully from your garden hose to remove aphids.
Botrytis blight, a fungal disease, causes reddish-brown leaf spots and is often the result of damp weather or evening watering. When you water at night, the leaves often stay wet until the sun comes out and dries them the following morning, encouraging foliar diseases) Whenever possible, water early in the day, or water at the base of the plant rather than over head. Adequate spacing between clusters of lilies also promotes good air circulation and may help prevent disease.
Deadhead flowers as they fade, by breaking them off carefully. That way, none of the plant's energy is “wasted” on seed production. Do not remove stems or foliage, though. They'll continue to put energy into the bulb as long as they remain green. Remove old foliage in late fall or early spring by cutting down the dead stalks. Lilies need well-drained soil in an area that receives sun or part shade. Lilies, like clematises, prefer their flowers and leaves in the sun while their roots prefer shade. They need to be kept moist. Lilies can be planted either in the fall or spring, whenever the bulbs are available.
Handle the bulbs carefully because the scales can be easily broken off. Space them 6 to 10 inches apart. Plant lilies with 4 to 6 inches of soil covering the bulb. This allows them to form roots along their stems. Tall lilies should be staked and protected from high winds. Mulch well to keep lily roots cool. Remove blooms when they die to prevent seedpod formation. Cut stems off at ground level after they turn brown, but never cut them down while the leaves are still green.
Dividing Bulbs
Lily bulbs do not need to be divided every year. Generally, every two to three years is sufficient. If you notice that your garden is overcrowded and the lilies are blooming less than they were in previous years, then it's time to divide your bulbs. They are all using a limited amount of nutrients and water in a limited amount of space and need more room to thrive.
They are best divided in the fall, just after the foliage has turned yellowish-brown. This way, the plant has had a sufficient amount of time to absorb lots of sunlight and convert it to sugar (plant food) through the process of photosynthesis before you cut off the foliage and dig up the bulbs for division. You can also divide your bulbs during other times of the year--early spring is the second best time of year--however, your bulbs may experience stress, especially if you divide the bulbs in the middle of their growing season. Divide lily bulbs with your hands by pulling off attached bulbs. Do not use a knife. Throw out any bulbs that are rotted or damaged.
After you have dug up your bulbs and divided them, it is essential that you replant them within a few days. Plant lily bulbs about 4 to 8 inches deep with the tips facing up. Space multiple plants 10 to 12 inches apart.
More information can be found on the web:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg1112.html
http://franklincountymgs.blogspot.com/2011/06/liliums-true-lilies.html
Asiatic and Oriental lilies are the two most popular types of lilies for northern gardens. As the names suggest, Asiatic lilies have their origins in several areas in Asia, while the Oriental lilies started from a few species native to Japan.
Asiatic lilies are among the easiest to grow. They're very hardy, need no staking, and are not particularly fussy about soil, as long as it drains well. If you like flowers which multiply prolifically, bloom early, and have bright powerful colors, then Asiatics may be for you. On the other hand, if you like heavenly scented flowers, Oriental lilies are the way to go. Oriental lilies tend to be more aromatic, but are a bit trickier to grow and will spread much more slowly.
Where, When and How to Plant Your Lilium
Lily bulbs may be planted in spring or in the fall, usually from mid-September through mid-October. If you find hardy lilies growing in containers, you may add them to your garden throughout the growing season. When buying locally, select firm, plump bulbs with roots attached. Plant them as soon as possible. Bulbs never go completely dormant so they must not dry out before planting.
Both Asiatic and Oriental lilies need five to six hours of sunlight every day. Oriental varieties, however, prefer afternoon shade too.
Never plant lilies where standing water collects after heavy rainfall. Well-drained soil is an absolute must. Add lots of organic matter to clay soil to create a raised area with improved drainage. Incorporate organic matter into light, sandy soil also, to help hold onto nutrients and prevent it from drying too rapidly.
Before winter, mulch over newly planted bulbs with four to six inches of loose, weed-free compost, leaves, or wood chips. This delays soil freezing and allows roots to continue growing longer. Mulch also insulates the soil against fluctuating temperatures, delaying the emergence of frost-tender shoots in spring.
Tiger Lilies (Lilium lancifolium) should be kept apart from other lilies since they can be carriers of viruses.
Caring for Your Lilies
In spring, leave mulch in place until the danger of hard frost has passed. If lily shoots grow through the mulch, start to remove the mulch gradually – but leave it nearby so you can cover them again if another hard frost is predicted.
Fertilize the soil each spring with a phosphorus-rich formula such as 5–10–10. Slow-release fertilizers work well. Always follow label instructions when applying fertilizer.
Lilies usually have few pests, but rabbits and slugs can be a menace to emerging shoots. Aphids – small sucking insects – can also cause problems for flower buds. Carefully wash the affected plants with water sprayed forcefully from your garden hose to remove aphids.
Botrytis blight, a fungal disease, causes reddish-brown leaf spots and is often the result of damp weather or evening watering. When you water at night, the leaves often stay wet until the sun comes out and dries them the following morning, encouraging foliar diseases) Whenever possible, water early in the day, or water at the base of the plant rather than over head. Adequate spacing between clusters of lilies also promotes good air circulation and may help prevent disease.
Deadhead flowers as they fade, by breaking them off carefully. That way, none of the plant's energy is “wasted” on seed production. Do not remove stems or foliage, though. They'll continue to put energy into the bulb as long as they remain green. Remove old foliage in late fall or early spring by cutting down the dead stalks. Lilies need well-drained soil in an area that receives sun or part shade. Lilies, like clematises, prefer their flowers and leaves in the sun while their roots prefer shade. They need to be kept moist. Lilies can be planted either in the fall or spring, whenever the bulbs are available.
Handle the bulbs carefully because the scales can be easily broken off. Space them 6 to 10 inches apart. Plant lilies with 4 to 6 inches of soil covering the bulb. This allows them to form roots along their stems. Tall lilies should be staked and protected from high winds. Mulch well to keep lily roots cool. Remove blooms when they die to prevent seedpod formation. Cut stems off at ground level after they turn brown, but never cut them down while the leaves are still green.
Dividing Bulbs
Lily bulbs do not need to be divided every year. Generally, every two to three years is sufficient. If you notice that your garden is overcrowded and the lilies are blooming less than they were in previous years, then it's time to divide your bulbs. They are all using a limited amount of nutrients and water in a limited amount of space and need more room to thrive.
They are best divided in the fall, just after the foliage has turned yellowish-brown. This way, the plant has had a sufficient amount of time to absorb lots of sunlight and convert it to sugar (plant food) through the process of photosynthesis before you cut off the foliage and dig up the bulbs for division. You can also divide your bulbs during other times of the year--early spring is the second best time of year--however, your bulbs may experience stress, especially if you divide the bulbs in the middle of their growing season. Divide lily bulbs with your hands by pulling off attached bulbs. Do not use a knife. Throw out any bulbs that are rotted or damaged.
After you have dug up your bulbs and divided them, it is essential that you replant them within a few days. Plant lily bulbs about 4 to 8 inches deep with the tips facing up. Space multiple plants 10 to 12 inches apart.
More information can be found on the web:
http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg1112.html
http://franklincountymgs.blogspot.com/2011/06/liliums-true-lilies.html
05/07: Preserving the Harvest
There continues to be a renewed interest in freezing, canning and drying foods. Many of the millions of people, who turned to gardening to save money during the recession or garden just because they enjoy it, appear to be sticking with it. Ensuring themselves and their families with safe, fresh and local foods has is a big draw for these folks. According to the National Gardening Association, home gardening continues to be on the increase. With the growing number of gardeners is the growing interest in food preservation.
The Penn State Master Gardener and Family Living programs are offering “Preserving the Harvest,” a series of three food preservation classes for the novice or experienced home canner. All classes will be offered in the Ag Heritage Center kitchen, 185 Franklin Farm Lane, Chambersburg.
The Penn State Master Gardener and Family Living programs are offering “Preserving the Harvest,” a series of three food preservation classes for the novice or experienced home canner. All classes will be offered in the Ag Heritage Center kitchen, 185 Franklin Farm Lane, Chambersburg.
04/07: COMING EVENTS and WORKSHOPS:
Thursday, July 21, 2011 6:30-9:00 p.m. Water Bath Canning - Learn to preserve food safely and correctly. This will be a hands-on workshop where you can practice your canning skills as a beginner or experienced preserver.
Thursday, July 28, 2011 6:00-9:00 p.m. Canning Under Pressure - This will be a hands-on workshop where you can practice your pressure canning skills and learn safely how to can low acid foods with a pressure canner to prevent spoilage.
Thursday, August 4, 2011 7:00-9:00 p.m. Freezing and Drying - Learn how to freeze fruits and vegetables quickly and safely for a high quality product. Learn how to dry fruits, vegetables, herbs and meats.
The preservation classes listed about cost $15.00 each, or $40.00 for the series.
For additional information, please call the Extension Office at 717-263-9226, or by email to mko4@psu.edu
Thursday, July 28, 2011 6:00-9:00 p.m. Canning Under Pressure - This will be a hands-on workshop where you can practice your pressure canning skills and learn safely how to can low acid foods with a pressure canner to prevent spoilage.
Thursday, August 4, 2011 7:00-9:00 p.m. Freezing and Drying - Learn how to freeze fruits and vegetables quickly and safely for a high quality product. Learn how to dry fruits, vegetables, herbs and meats.
The preservation classes listed about cost $15.00 each, or $40.00 for the series.
For additional information, please call the Extension Office at 717-263-9226, or by email to mko4@psu.edu
16/10: Autumn Leaves
Because of the hot, dry conditions this summer, many trees began turning colors early this year. Pennsylvania hardwoods across the state began going from green to gold, orange, red and purple -- and to dull brown -- in mid-September. "It has been so dry, and trees in some areas are so challenged by drought conditions, that their leaves just went straight to brown and are falling off the branches already," said Marc Abrams, professor of forest ecology and physiology.
"I think we have to lower our expectations on what we hope to see this year because the climate has put tremendous stress on some tree species," he said.
Recent rains may have come too late to affect the foliage display, but, Professor Abrams also notes that Pennsylvania's forests are amazingly resilient, so there will still be some colorful foliage. "But clearly this won't be one of our better years."
For more than two decades, Abrams has studied how seasonal precipitation and temperature influence timing and intensity of fall colors in central Pennsylvania. "We believe that clear, bright days, low but not freezing temperatures, and dry but not drought conditions promote the best fall colors," he said.
Cooler temperatures signal deciduous trees to stop producing chlorophyll, the green pigment responsible for photosynthesis. The chlorophyll breaks down and disappears, unmasking other leaf pigments. It's these other pigments -- called xanthophylls and carotenes -- that create the yellows and oranges seen in the leaves of yellow poplar, hickory, sycamore, honey locust, birch, beech and certain maples.
After chlorophyll production stops, trees also produce another pigment in their leaves called anthocyanins. The anthocyanins create the brilliant reds and purples seen in maple, sassafras, sumac, black gum and purple oak. The amount of anthocyanin produced each year is related to starch levels in the tree. Trees often produce less starch during droughts, such as the one the state is experiencing.
"One thing that I have been impressed with in my 20 years of gauging foliage is the resiliency of the display," Abrams said. "Year after year, despite the conditions, there are places where the trees show good color, but perhaps not great color.
“People should go out and search for those pockets of bright color, because they will be there. They just may be a little harder to find this year than usual.”
Information for this item was derived from Penn State University’s Official News Source:
http://live.psu.edu/story/48659#nw63
"I think we have to lower our expectations on what we hope to see this year because the climate has put tremendous stress on some tree species," he said.
Recent rains may have come too late to affect the foliage display, but, Professor Abrams also notes that Pennsylvania's forests are amazingly resilient, so there will still be some colorful foliage. "But clearly this won't be one of our better years."
For more than two decades, Abrams has studied how seasonal precipitation and temperature influence timing and intensity of fall colors in central Pennsylvania. "We believe that clear, bright days, low but not freezing temperatures, and dry but not drought conditions promote the best fall colors," he said.
Cooler temperatures signal deciduous trees to stop producing chlorophyll, the green pigment responsible for photosynthesis. The chlorophyll breaks down and disappears, unmasking other leaf pigments. It's these other pigments -- called xanthophylls and carotenes -- that create the yellows and oranges seen in the leaves of yellow poplar, hickory, sycamore, honey locust, birch, beech and certain maples.
After chlorophyll production stops, trees also produce another pigment in their leaves called anthocyanins. The anthocyanins create the brilliant reds and purples seen in maple, sassafras, sumac, black gum and purple oak. The amount of anthocyanin produced each year is related to starch levels in the tree. Trees often produce less starch during droughts, such as the one the state is experiencing.
"One thing that I have been impressed with in my 20 years of gauging foliage is the resiliency of the display," Abrams said. "Year after year, despite the conditions, there are places where the trees show good color, but perhaps not great color.
“People should go out and search for those pockets of bright color, because they will be there. They just may be a little harder to find this year than usual.”
Information for this item was derived from Penn State University’s Official News Source:
http://live.psu.edu/story/48659#nw63
15/10: Mum’s the Word
Master Gardener Kathy Engle provides us with information on the fall favorite, chrysanthemums. Garden mums are ubiquitous in fall gardens. The beauty of their instant fall color is hard to beat. The mums for sale in fall nurseries have been coddled to set buds for September blooms and are putting an awful lot of energy into blooming, not growing roots. These garden mums may carry the label of being "hardy", but planting these out in the garden in the fall usually does not allow sufficient time for the plants to become established. In our area with some winter days of below zero, freezing and thawing of the soil will heave the plant out of the ground and kill the roots. While spring-planted garden mums have a much better chance of survival, you can increase the survival rate of fall-planted garden mums by planting as soon as possible, keeping the foliage on until spring, and mulching the plants heavily. Of course you can always enjoy the beauty of garden mums and consider them annuals.
Did you know there are truly hardy perennial chrysanthemums? They are later blooming than the garden mums and will extend your growing season well into October. You will not find the perennial chrysanthemums for sale with the fall garden mums. Nurseries generally place them with perennials.
The chrysanthemum world has not made it easy on us, as they have been busy classifying and reclassifying perennial mums. About seven years ago these hardy perennial mums were reclassified from Chrysanthemums. After the reclassification you would find perennial mums listed as Chrysanthemum rubellum, Chrysanthemum X rubellum and Chrysanthemum koreana. Then four years ago they were reclassified again to Chrysanthemums. Now I find them listed under all classifications.
Many perennial gardeners are familiar with the Chrysanthemum rubellum 'Clara Curtis' often found in local nurseries along with Chrysanthemum rubellum 'Sheffield Pink’. The following perennials are not as easy to find locally, but are definitely worth looking into for your fall garden.
~Chrysanthemum rubellum 'Mary Stoker'
~Chrysanthemum rubellum 'Sheffield Yellow'
~Chrysanthemum rubellum 'Venus' (Pink and White Form)
~Chrysanthemum x 'Bolero'
~Chrysanthemum x 'Cambodian Queen'
Let your favorite nursery know you are interested in purchasing perennial chrysanthemums. They may be able to include them in their perennial stock next year. This item with pictures can be found at http://franklincountymgs.blogspot.com/2010/08/mums-word.html
Did you know there are truly hardy perennial chrysanthemums? They are later blooming than the garden mums and will extend your growing season well into October. You will not find the perennial chrysanthemums for sale with the fall garden mums. Nurseries generally place them with perennials.
The chrysanthemum world has not made it easy on us, as they have been busy classifying and reclassifying perennial mums. About seven years ago these hardy perennial mums were reclassified from Chrysanthemums. After the reclassification you would find perennial mums listed as Chrysanthemum rubellum, Chrysanthemum X rubellum and Chrysanthemum koreana. Then four years ago they were reclassified again to Chrysanthemums. Now I find them listed under all classifications.
Many perennial gardeners are familiar with the Chrysanthemum rubellum 'Clara Curtis' often found in local nurseries along with Chrysanthemum rubellum 'Sheffield Pink’. The following perennials are not as easy to find locally, but are definitely worth looking into for your fall garden.
~Chrysanthemum rubellum 'Mary Stoker'
~Chrysanthemum rubellum 'Sheffield Yellow'
~Chrysanthemum rubellum 'Venus' (Pink and White Form)
~Chrysanthemum x 'Bolero'
~Chrysanthemum x 'Cambodian Queen'
Let your favorite nursery know you are interested in purchasing perennial chrysanthemums. They may be able to include them in their perennial stock next year. This item with pictures can be found at http://franklincountymgs.blogspot.com/2010/08/mums-word.html
14/10: Haiku Horticulture
The Master Gardeners of Franklin County invite you to attend an overview introduction to Japanese styles of horticulture with presentations on Japanese Landscaping and gardening in small places, and demonstrations of the art of Bonsai and the Moribana style of Ikebana flower arranging.
In the same way that a few simple rules and nature themes guide the endless possibilities in Japanese Haiku poetry, working with plants in the Japanese style, also offer a few simple and adaptable rules, with a corresponding endless set of possible results.
This introductory overview is useful for both the beginner and experienced gardener, and each of the presentations can be expanded to full, detailed workshops on their own, depending on the level of interest. $10.00 Saturday, October 21, 2010 at the Ag Heritage Center - More details here:
http://franklincountymgs.blogspot.com/2010/09/october-workshop-haiku-horticulture.html
In the same way that a few simple rules and nature themes guide the endless possibilities in Japanese Haiku poetry, working with plants in the Japanese style, also offer a few simple and adaptable rules, with a corresponding endless set of possible results.
This introductory overview is useful for both the beginner and experienced gardener, and each of the presentations can be expanded to full, detailed workshops on their own, depending on the level of interest. $10.00 Saturday, October 21, 2010 at the Ag Heritage Center - More details here:
http://franklincountymgs.blogspot.com/2010/09/october-workshop-haiku-horticulture.html