18/02: Snow Mold
Snow mold is a fungal disease that can show up in your lawn in spring as the snow melts. We haven’t had a long lasting snow cover for several years but this spring is likely to be different with a long lasting snow cover for parts of your lawn. The cold wet conditions under the snow are ideal for the growth of the snow mold organism.
Symptoms will be circular straw colored patches in the grass in the spring as the snow melts. These small patches can continue to get bigger as long as it stays cold and wet. Once it warms up the spots will disappear. There is a gray snow mold that is white to gray in color. There is also a pink snow mold that will be white to pink in color.
The damage from snow mold is seldom serious enough that you will need to do any treatments the snow mold affected areas will green up slower that the rest of the lawn but it will catch up as the weather warms.
There is obviously nothing that you can do about snow mold now. However as the snow melts this spring you can spread out the snow piles you have created along your walkway and driveways so they will melt faster.
Symptoms will be circular straw colored patches in the grass in the spring as the snow melts. These small patches can continue to get bigger as long as it stays cold and wet. Once it warms up the spots will disappear. There is a gray snow mold that is white to gray in color. There is also a pink snow mold that will be white to pink in color.
The damage from snow mold is seldom serious enough that you will need to do any treatments the snow mold affected areas will green up slower that the rest of the lawn but it will catch up as the weather warms.
There is obviously nothing that you can do about snow mold now. However as the snow melts this spring you can spread out the snow piles you have created along your walkway and driveways so they will melt faster.
15/02: Protect Young Trees
If you have young landscape trees of fruit trees in your yard you should protect them from rabbits. When we have deep snows like we have now much of the food for the rabbits get covered and it is harder for them to find food. If you placed any protection around your trees last fall it no longer is tall enough to give protection. Hungry rabbits will quickly chew off the bark on tree branches and trunks of tree.
If you live in an area that has a problem with rabbits you should purchase chicken wire to put around your trees. Push it down into the snow so it is secure. As the snow melts and settles you will have to readjust the wire. This protection is important because if the three’s bark is removed all the way around the tree it will die.
If you live in an area that has a problem with rabbits you should purchase chicken wire to put around your trees. Push it down into the snow so it is secure. As the snow melts and settles you will have to readjust the wire. This protection is important because if the three’s bark is removed all the way around the tree it will die.
20/12: SAVING ENERGY COSTS
With increases in the cost of electric for our homes happening
soon or by the end of next year for most of us we look for ways that we
might reduce the cost of our homes energy usage.
Lower the setting on your hot water heater to 120 degrees F. If
you have an electric hot water heater you likely have an upper and lower
heating unit, so be sure to turn them down to 120 degrees F, which is
warm enough for most household uses. If you have a water heater and
you're not sure how to turn it down, consult your owner's manual or you
can find a manual on-line.
Install a programmable thermostat that is compatible with your
heating system. Look for an Energy Star qualified thermostat which has
been designed to help you save as much money as possible with present
programs or you can create your own. Installation of a programmable
thermostat might not be within your skills. If not then have a
qualified heating and cooling contractor install it for you. It will
probably pay for itself in the first year. If you don't want to install
a programmable thermostat be sure you turn your manual thermostat back
at bedtime and turn it back up in the morning or maybe not until you get
home from work.
Replace all your incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent (CFL's).
While they cost more to initially purchase they will hit the breakeven
point compared to an incandescent after about 500 hours of use and CFL's
are designed to last 8,000 hours or more. Remember that CFL's are new
technology and it is continually getting better. The first ones I
bought were very disappointing but now they are much better. Some are
made for dimmer switches or enclosed locations and there is now a
three-way CFL. By using them you save yourself money each time you turn
on a light.
Test your weather stripping and caulking around your doors and
windows to be sure you don't have air leaks. You can purchase a stick
of incense which gives off a white smoke. On a windy day hold it by the
edges of your outside doors and windows. If you see the smoke move it
is due to a draft and that needs to be sealed with weather stripping or
door sweeps, caulking or foam insulation depending on which method is
the most appropriate. Sealing air leaks is a very important part of
saving energy in your house.
If you get carried away with saving energy and upgrade your
appliances with energy star models and update your attic's insulation or
replace your old water heater or boiler, be sure to check out possible
federal energy tax credits you may be eligible for. There have been
some big changes in tax credits in 2009 and probably more changes in
2010, and all are aimed at reducing our energy usage.
soon or by the end of next year for most of us we look for ways that we
might reduce the cost of our homes energy usage.
Lower the setting on your hot water heater to 120 degrees F. If
you have an electric hot water heater you likely have an upper and lower
heating unit, so be sure to turn them down to 120 degrees F, which is
warm enough for most household uses. If you have a water heater and
you're not sure how to turn it down, consult your owner's manual or you
can find a manual on-line.
Install a programmable thermostat that is compatible with your
heating system. Look for an Energy Star qualified thermostat which has
been designed to help you save as much money as possible with present
programs or you can create your own. Installation of a programmable
thermostat might not be within your skills. If not then have a
qualified heating and cooling contractor install it for you. It will
probably pay for itself in the first year. If you don't want to install
a programmable thermostat be sure you turn your manual thermostat back
at bedtime and turn it back up in the morning or maybe not until you get
home from work.
Replace all your incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent (CFL's).
While they cost more to initially purchase they will hit the breakeven
point compared to an incandescent after about 500 hours of use and CFL's
are designed to last 8,000 hours or more. Remember that CFL's are new
technology and it is continually getting better. The first ones I
bought were very disappointing but now they are much better. Some are
made for dimmer switches or enclosed locations and there is now a
three-way CFL. By using them you save yourself money each time you turn
on a light.
Test your weather stripping and caulking around your doors and
windows to be sure you don't have air leaks. You can purchase a stick
of incense which gives off a white smoke. On a windy day hold it by the
edges of your outside doors and windows. If you see the smoke move it
is due to a draft and that needs to be sealed with weather stripping or
door sweeps, caulking or foam insulation depending on which method is
the most appropriate. Sealing air leaks is a very important part of
saving energy in your house.
If you get carried away with saving energy and upgrade your
appliances with energy star models and update your attic's insulation or
replace your old water heater or boiler, be sure to check out possible
federal energy tax credits you may be eligible for. There have been
some big changes in tax credits in 2009 and probably more changes in
2010, and all are aimed at reducing our energy usage.
14/12: ICE MELTERS
Most of the products we use to melt ice on our roads and
sidewalks are some type of salt. These products lower the freezing
point of water to below 32 degrees F. and makes the road drivable.
However all salts can be hard on plants, but some are worse than others.
Rock salt has been used for many decades as a way to melt ice.
It is very hard on metal and on plants, so other products have been
developed that are a little safer and effective.
Calcium chloride is the second most often used product to melt
ice. It is often in white pellet form and can be effective down to
minus 25 degrees F. It is more expensive than salt and will often be
mixed together with salt to make an effective but less expensive
product.
Some people will use fertilizers such as urea, which can be
effective in melting ice, but it should not be used because it contains
nitrogen that can end up going along with the melted ice into the storm
water system and eventually end up in the Chesapeake Bay. Besides
fertilizers are not good for plants in high amounts because they are
salts too.
Since we are now in the time of the year when ice can be an
issue, choose one of the products that have calcium chloride or a blend
with calcium chloride and sodium chloride.
When you use these products don't use them to try to melt three
to four inches of snow. They are meant to melt the ice layer at the
road surface or the sidewalk surface so you can easily shovel the snow
and ice off the area. They are not meant to melt everything so you
don't need to shovel.
If you have a dog or cat that goes outside you need to use one
of the new products that is safe for your pet. The product will not
harm your pet's paws. Most pet stores will have these products.
Salt damage to plants can show up in different ways. If it is
splashed up on evergreen trees and shrubs the foliage will dehydrate and
turn brown next spring. If it accumulates where snow is shoveled on
lawn it can injure the plant roots and weaken or kill your grass. This
problem can be lessened by flushing the area with water to move the
salts below the root zone.
sidewalks are some type of salt. These products lower the freezing
point of water to below 32 degrees F. and makes the road drivable.
However all salts can be hard on plants, but some are worse than others.
Rock salt has been used for many decades as a way to melt ice.
It is very hard on metal and on plants, so other products have been
developed that are a little safer and effective.
Calcium chloride is the second most often used product to melt
ice. It is often in white pellet form and can be effective down to
minus 25 degrees F. It is more expensive than salt and will often be
mixed together with salt to make an effective but less expensive
product.
Some people will use fertilizers such as urea, which can be
effective in melting ice, but it should not be used because it contains
nitrogen that can end up going along with the melted ice into the storm
water system and eventually end up in the Chesapeake Bay. Besides
fertilizers are not good for plants in high amounts because they are
salts too.
Since we are now in the time of the year when ice can be an
issue, choose one of the products that have calcium chloride or a blend
with calcium chloride and sodium chloride.
When you use these products don't use them to try to melt three
to four inches of snow. They are meant to melt the ice layer at the
road surface or the sidewalk surface so you can easily shovel the snow
and ice off the area. They are not meant to melt everything so you
don't need to shovel.
If you have a dog or cat that goes outside you need to use one
of the new products that is safe for your pet. The product will not
harm your pet's paws. Most pet stores will have these products.
Salt damage to plants can show up in different ways. If it is
splashed up on evergreen trees and shrubs the foliage will dehydrate and
turn brown next spring. If it accumulates where snow is shoveled on
lawn it can injure the plant roots and weaken or kill your grass. This
problem can be lessened by flushing the area with water to move the
salts below the root zone.
09/11: LATE FALL LAWN FERTILIZER
It is time to do your final application of nitrogen to your lawn
to help get it ready for the winter and to help it green up in the
spring. First, a clarification of what fertilizer to use on your lawn.
Recently I suggested using a winterizing fertilizer that had a higher
percent of phosphorous than what we would put on in the rest of the
year. It was brought to my attention that recent research has changed
some of that thinking. In checking it out, that was confirmed to be
correct. Therefore here are our recommendations. First do a soil test
every three years to use the results to maintain the correct level of
soil nutrients for your lawn.
For the fertilizer recommendation that you should use at this
time of year, you should apply urea, which is 46 percent nitrogen. For
our lawns which are mostly cool season grasses like Kentucky Bluegrass,
Turf type Tall Fescue and Perennial Ryegrass, you want about one pound
of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. This is about 2.2 pounds of
urea fertilizer.
This late season fertilization should be put on close to
Thanksgiving. It will help maintain your green color in the fall. And
will also help your grass green up in the spring, so you won't need to
fertilize until Memorial Day. If you wanted to go to a lower fertility
program you could even skip that application and only do fall
fertilization around Labor Day with a turf type Fertilizer (4-5 pounds
per 1,000 square feet) and then repeat your urea application next
Thanksgiving.
Urea maybe hard to find but you should be able to find it at
good garden centers. If not, go to stores that sell fertilizer for
farmers.
to help get it ready for the winter and to help it green up in the
spring. First, a clarification of what fertilizer to use on your lawn.
Recently I suggested using a winterizing fertilizer that had a higher
percent of phosphorous than what we would put on in the rest of the
year. It was brought to my attention that recent research has changed
some of that thinking. In checking it out, that was confirmed to be
correct. Therefore here are our recommendations. First do a soil test
every three years to use the results to maintain the correct level of
soil nutrients for your lawn.
For the fertilizer recommendation that you should use at this
time of year, you should apply urea, which is 46 percent nitrogen. For
our lawns which are mostly cool season grasses like Kentucky Bluegrass,
Turf type Tall Fescue and Perennial Ryegrass, you want about one pound
of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. This is about 2.2 pounds of
urea fertilizer.
This late season fertilization should be put on close to
Thanksgiving. It will help maintain your green color in the fall. And
will also help your grass green up in the spring, so you won't need to
fertilize until Memorial Day. If you wanted to go to a lower fertility
program you could even skip that application and only do fall
fertilization around Labor Day with a turf type Fertilizer (4-5 pounds
per 1,000 square feet) and then repeat your urea application next
Thanksgiving.
Urea maybe hard to find but you should be able to find it at
good garden centers. If not, go to stores that sell fertilizer for
farmers.
While you are out in your yard raking leaves and getting ready
for winter, take some time to look up and evaluate your trees. With the
leaves off most of the trees, you can inspect your trees for structural
damage that may have occurred during the past year and not have been
visible during the spring and summer. Under the law, it is your duty to
exercise care, good judgment, caution, and foresight by inspecting your
trees regularly and recognizing situations that may cause them to break
or fall. Small trees with minor damage can probably be taken care of by
the property owner, but large, mature trees likely will need the help of
a professional tree service.
To look for hazardous conditions, inspect each tree systematically.
Start by scanning the top, using binoculars if necessary. After
reviewing the crown, look downward along the trunk, and then carefully
examine the root zone. Look for splits and cracks in the trunk and
limbs. Look for sap seepage as this can indicate a hidden crack or
split. Look at the ground. Can you see uplifted soil or disturbed roots
which can indicate root damage?
Older trees, which may have accumulated multiple defects and extensive
decay, should be inspected carefully. Decaying trees may be prone to
failure, but the presence of decay alone does not necessarily mean
failure. Soft, crumbly wood with a cavity is an indicator of decay which
may be serious. Evidence of fungal activity including mushrooms and
conks are additional indicators of decay. If you notice any of these
problems, then call a company that has a certified arborist who can
advise you how to deal with the problems. When in doubt about the
safety of a tree, consult a certified arborist.
Screen potential arborists by asking for references; certificates of
insurance; and how they will prune the trees (see if they mention that
their work will be in accordance with ANSI A300 National Tree Pruning
Standards). Membership in organizations such as the International
Society of Arboriculture (ISA) or National Arborist Association (NAA)
indicates a certain degree of knowledge and professionalism. ISA in
particular, maintains a list of arborists who have passed extensive
testing to become a Certified Arborist. Avoid those that mention
topping. Topping leads to disease, decay, split bark, insect
infestation, dense shade, bird problems, high maintenance costs, and
decline of the tree. Topping accelerates the death of many of our
trees.
for winter, take some time to look up and evaluate your trees. With the
leaves off most of the trees, you can inspect your trees for structural
damage that may have occurred during the past year and not have been
visible during the spring and summer. Under the law, it is your duty to
exercise care, good judgment, caution, and foresight by inspecting your
trees regularly and recognizing situations that may cause them to break
or fall. Small trees with minor damage can probably be taken care of by
the property owner, but large, mature trees likely will need the help of
a professional tree service.
To look for hazardous conditions, inspect each tree systematically.
Start by scanning the top, using binoculars if necessary. After
reviewing the crown, look downward along the trunk, and then carefully
examine the root zone. Look for splits and cracks in the trunk and
limbs. Look for sap seepage as this can indicate a hidden crack or
split. Look at the ground. Can you see uplifted soil or disturbed roots
which can indicate root damage?
Older trees, which may have accumulated multiple defects and extensive
decay, should be inspected carefully. Decaying trees may be prone to
failure, but the presence of decay alone does not necessarily mean
failure. Soft, crumbly wood with a cavity is an indicator of decay which
may be serious. Evidence of fungal activity including mushrooms and
conks are additional indicators of decay. If you notice any of these
problems, then call a company that has a certified arborist who can
advise you how to deal with the problems. When in doubt about the
safety of a tree, consult a certified arborist.
Screen potential arborists by asking for references; certificates of
insurance; and how they will prune the trees (see if they mention that
their work will be in accordance with ANSI A300 National Tree Pruning
Standards). Membership in organizations such as the International
Society of Arboriculture (ISA) or National Arborist Association (NAA)
indicates a certain degree of knowledge and professionalism. ISA in
particular, maintains a list of arborists who have passed extensive
testing to become a Certified Arborist. Avoid those that mention
topping. Topping leads to disease, decay, split bark, insect
infestation, dense shade, bird problems, high maintenance costs, and
decline of the tree. Topping accelerates the death of many of our
trees.
31/10: TEST YOUR HOME FOR RADON
For a limited time you can pick up a free radon test kit at the Franklin
County Extension Office, as long as supplies last, and with the
limitation that only one kit will be given per household. The radon
test kits are being made available by the American Lung Association of
Pennsylvania and the Pennsylvania Department of Environmental
Protection. Call 263-9226 first to ensure kits are still available, and
then stop in Monday through Friday from 8:00 am to 4:30 pm at the
Franklin County Extension Office which is located at 181 Franklin Farm
Lane in Chambersburg.
Now is a good time of year to test your home for radon. Testing homes
for elevated levels of radon is simple. The only way to know if you
have a radon problem in your home is to test. Radon problems can be
fixed by qualified contractors for a cost similar to that of many common
home repairs such as painting or having a new water heater installed
(anywhere from $800 to about $2,500).
According to the U.S. Surgeon General and the Environmental Protection
Agency, radon gas is estimated to be the second leading cause of lung
cancer in the U.S. today. Radon is estimated to cause about 14,000
deaths per year -- however, this number could range from 7,000 to 30,000
deaths per year. Nearly 1 out of every 15 homes in the U.S. is
estimated to have elevated radon levels -- 4 picocuries per liter of air
(pCi/L) or more. According to the PA Department of Environmental
Protection, Pennsylvania has about twice as many houses with radon
levels above 4 pCi/L as any other state.
In-depth radon information is available at the EPA Radon Home Page:
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/radon/index.html; at the PA DEP Radon homepage:
http://www.dep.state.pa.us/brp/Radon_Division/Radon_Homepage.html; or by
calling the Radon Division Hotline at 1-800-237-2366.
County Extension Office, as long as supplies last, and with the
limitation that only one kit will be given per household. The radon
test kits are being made available by the American Lung Association of
Pennsylvania and the Pennsylvania Department of Environmental
Protection. Call 263-9226 first to ensure kits are still available, and
then stop in Monday through Friday from 8:00 am to 4:30 pm at the
Franklin County Extension Office which is located at 181 Franklin Farm
Lane in Chambersburg.
Now is a good time of year to test your home for radon. Testing homes
for elevated levels of radon is simple. The only way to know if you
have a radon problem in your home is to test. Radon problems can be
fixed by qualified contractors for a cost similar to that of many common
home repairs such as painting or having a new water heater installed
(anywhere from $800 to about $2,500).
According to the U.S. Surgeon General and the Environmental Protection
Agency, radon gas is estimated to be the second leading cause of lung
cancer in the U.S. today. Radon is estimated to cause about 14,000
deaths per year -- however, this number could range from 7,000 to 30,000
deaths per year. Nearly 1 out of every 15 homes in the U.S. is
estimated to have elevated radon levels -- 4 picocuries per liter of air
(pCi/L) or more. According to the PA Department of Environmental
Protection, Pennsylvania has about twice as many houses with radon
levels above 4 pCi/L as any other state.
In-depth radon information is available at the EPA Radon Home Page:
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/radon/index.html; at the PA DEP Radon homepage:
http://www.dep.state.pa.us/brp/Radon_Division/Radon_Homepage.html; or by
calling the Radon Division Hotline at 1-800-237-2366.
26/10: FALL LAWN MOWING
Now that we have had frost and the days keep getting shorter
your lawn will slow down growth, but you still need to keep mowing.
Some people ask, should I mow so I leave more grass to help my lawn
overwinter? Generally the answer to this would be no because there is
such thing as having your grass too tall going into winter and it will
mat down. However we want you to mow your grass at the proper height so
your grass stays healthy and this is an area that many people can
improve on. Grass has a height it likes to grow that it produces enough
food to be healthy. These heights are tall fescue: 2.5 - 3.5 inches;
Kentucky bluegrass: 2 - 3 inches; and Perennial ryegrass: 2 - 3 inches.
If you set your mower for 2.5 inches you should be fine for any of our
cool season grass. Unfortunately lawns get mowed too short reducing the
leaf surface to produce food. The end result will be a weaker turf.
Take a ruler out and actually measure your grass when you are done
mowing. If you are shorter than 2.5 inches you should make the
adjustments necessary to mow it taller. Remember to keep mowing as long
as your grass keeps growing. Generally this will be for a few weeks
yet.
your lawn will slow down growth, but you still need to keep mowing.
Some people ask, should I mow so I leave more grass to help my lawn
overwinter? Generally the answer to this would be no because there is
such thing as having your grass too tall going into winter and it will
mat down. However we want you to mow your grass at the proper height so
your grass stays healthy and this is an area that many people can
improve on. Grass has a height it likes to grow that it produces enough
food to be healthy. These heights are tall fescue: 2.5 - 3.5 inches;
Kentucky bluegrass: 2 - 3 inches; and Perennial ryegrass: 2 - 3 inches.
If you set your mower for 2.5 inches you should be fine for any of our
cool season grass. Unfortunately lawns get mowed too short reducing the
leaf surface to produce food. The end result will be a weaker turf.
Take a ruler out and actually measure your grass when you are done
mowing. If you are shorter than 2.5 inches you should make the
adjustments necessary to mow it taller. Remember to keep mowing as long
as your grass keeps growing. Generally this will be for a few weeks
yet.
23/10: TIME TO SOIL TEST
Fall is an excellent time to purchase a soil test and take a sample from your yard. The report you get back will tell you a lot about your soils.
Recently we had a gentleman come in with his soil test report to ask a few questions. He was surprised to be told to stop using his 10-10-10 fertilizer and only apply nitrogen in the form of urea. He was using too much fertilizer and lime and getting levels of soil nutrients in the excessive area as well as his pH was too high due to too much lime. Neither of these conditions is good for plant growth or the environment. Plus he is paying for nutrients he doesn't need.
Maybe you are doing the same thing to your yard. The only way you will know for sure is to take a soil test, which costs $9.00 and the results will get back to you in less than two weeks. If you need lime you can apply it this fall and next year you know what fertilizer you need to use.
Recently we had a gentleman come in with his soil test report to ask a few questions. He was surprised to be told to stop using his 10-10-10 fertilizer and only apply nitrogen in the form of urea. He was using too much fertilizer and lime and getting levels of soil nutrients in the excessive area as well as his pH was too high due to too much lime. Neither of these conditions is good for plant growth or the environment. Plus he is paying for nutrients he doesn't need.
Maybe you are doing the same thing to your yard. The only way you will know for sure is to take a soil test, which costs $9.00 and the results will get back to you in less than two weeks. If you need lime you can apply it this fall and next year you know what fertilizer you need to use.
17/10: FROSTY LAWNS
When you walk on a frosted lawn you can damage the grass blades so your foot prints may show later in the next day or two. The foot prints will not kill the grass because the crown is not damaged, just the leaves. Remember that when the lawn is frosted, stay on the sidewalk.